THE SUBJECTIVE MOSTLY AMERICAN LOAFER LIST_Opinions on the age old shoe.
What's old is new again...and again /// 古いものはまた新しい...そしてまた
Recognizing this post is anything but original or new, we share our thinking here as part of our larger unfolding story and interests.
Loafers are back in vogue for some… and always for others.
Of late my feeds and inbox are awash in loafer ads and catalog images. Perhaps it’s because I have a track record of collecting them as I see fit (or as the narrow-cast marketing bots find fit to target me). More likely it’s because they are evergreens that get a resurgence with every new generation.
This season it’s a number of the age old players (Bass Weejun / Sebago and Crocket & Jones) freshening up their act, while J Crew (under new leadership and a stronger eye) has delivered a true classic.
Now seen on todays youth, there are some wonderful variations of the classic shoe. The loafer looks as good as ever… and ever.
Here then is our subjective mostly American loafer list and why. It omits quite a lot and asks that suggestions be added in comments section.
JP
Alden / Alden is THE American Ivy iconic shoe brand. Their cordovan line is the gold standard often rising to the status of family heirloom. (“I’m wearing my grandfathers” is an often heard statement in traditional circles). They discontinued the Cape Cod line w the benchmark “beef roll”, but what remains is still a must have at some point.
J Crew / Near perfect proportions akin to a well balanced Italian car. Exceptionally comfortable . Leather & Rubber sole choices. On sale puts them around $100. Win win…. Here you will also find collaborations w Alden and others.
GH Bass / The original Bass Weejun - Likely the defining loafer of the original Ivy League set - considering cost for students and all else. They have really taken the shoe to other iterations in material / sole thickness, etc. A classic classic with some modern twists.
Sebago / Made as always… with exceptional quality, but a slight squaring of the nose/toe box of late. New last? Something is different for you to like or not.
Loake (UK) / Wonderfully bench made British shoes that run a bit wide. This company has deep heritage while creating a staple of The Mods > The Brighton.
Crocket & Jones (UK) / To me C&J is the UK’s answer to Alden. Since 1879 this company has been producing masterpiece after masterpiece. I have a suede tassel loafer going on 20 years now. Bulletproof. These are shoes you never get rid of and find yourself making room for by tossing others out.
J.Press + Brooks Brothers / J.Press offers up a number of the brands listed above while Brooks is selling under their own label. These two venerated stores are always included as cornerstone sellers and will remain go to businesses for attire… though the future of Brooks Brothers is unclear.
Gucci / An outlier in a traditionalists wardrobe. That said the classic “horsebit” loafer has been a preppy staple forever and has a rightful standing in every closet. At Gucci you can keep it tight in black or brown, or jump right into the euro freak circus pimp look with patterns and colors. As your heart desires.
Belgian Shoes / Handmade in Belgium since 1955. These are one of a kind and demand a level of certainty and confidence to walk within. Classics without question but wear them like you mean it.
Stubbs and Wootton / Handmade in Spain, these are a slipper style loafer that can become a collectable habit. Endless variations and playful ideas can be found in this brand. These represent the “go to hell” attitude of many a well heeled snob.
Do you know origin of the Penny Loafer?
Penny Loafer’s go back to the 1930’s where an emergency phone call cost two pennies on a pay phone. People thus put pennies inside of their loafers should such a need arise.
Finally a few notes on the loafer through history found here and here.